Make the syrup first so it has time to cool. Bring the sugar and water to a boil, add the lemon juice, then lower the heat and let it tick over for about ten minutes until it coats a spoon. Stir in the orange blossom water and take it off the heat.

Rub the pastry between your fingers to loosen every strand, then work the melted butter through it until each shred is coated and the whole mass feels sandy rather than damp.

If you are using colouring, stir it into a spoonful of butter and paint the base of a round tray. Press half the pastry firmly into the tray, pushing it up the sides a little.

Spread the cheese evenly, leaving a small border, then cover with the remaining pastry and press down so the top and bottom meet at the edge and seal the cheese in.

Bake at 200C (400F) for about 35 minutes. Judge it by the edge, not the top: lift a corner with a knife and look for a deep even orange underneath.

Invert onto a serving tray while it is still hot, pour the cooled syrup over straight away, and scatter the pistachios. Hot pastry and cool syrup is the whole trick; the other way round makes it soggy.